Sabtu, 27 Januari 2018

The ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% peeling solution


Sekitar 2 minggu yang lalu aku melakukan chemical peeling di salah satu klinik. Karena suka dengan hasilnya aku jadi ketagihan tapi kan chemical peeling di klinik itu dosisnya cukup besar dan hanya bisa dilakukan mungkin 3-4 minggu sekali sesuai siklus regenerasi kulit, so sebagai alternatif aku cari produk chemical exfoliator yang dijual bebas untuk perawatan mingguan di rumah. Pilihanku jatuh pada The ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% peeling solution. Berikut deskripsinya.


With 30% Alpha Hydroxyl Acids (Glycolic/Lactic/Tartaric/Citric), 2% Beta Hydroxyl Acid (Salicylic Acid), Hyaluronic Acid Crosspolymer, Vitamin B5, Black Carrot and Tasmanian Pepperberry 

Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) exfoliate the skin's topmost surface for a brighter and more even appearance. Beta hydroxyl acids (BHA) also exfoliate the skin with an extended function to help clear pore congestion. This combined 32% AHA/BHA solution offers deeper exfoliation to help fight visible blemishes and for improved skin radiance. The formula also improves the appearance of skin texture and reduces the look of fine lines with continued use. 

This formula contains a studied Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative to help reduce irritation associated with acid use. This derivative is of plant origin and varies in colour seasonally and this colour variation may be apparent in the formula from time to time. This formula is further supported with a crosspolymer form of hyaluronic acid for comfort, Vitamin B5 to assist healing and black carrot as an antioxidant. 

Note: This formula contains a very high concentration of free acids. We recommend use only if you are an experienced user of acid exfoliation and your skin is not sensitive.

Contraindications: This formula should not be used on sensitive, peeling or compromised skin. Please refer to additional sun protection note and other warnings in provided Directions. 

This pH of this formula is approximately 3.6. Glycolic Acid, the primary AHA used in the formula, has a pKa of 3.6 and pKa is the most important aspect to consider in formulating with acids. pKa implies acid availability. When pKa is close to pH, there is an ideal balance between salt and acidity, maximizing effectiveness of the acid and reducing irritation. Higher pH numbers in such a case would increase salt which counter-intuitively would make the formula even more irritating than if the formula was more acidic. 

Note: While exfoliating acids can result in quick visible benefits, we generally suggest indirect forms of skin exfoliation in favour of direct forms such as this formula due to potential inflammation and sensitivity associated with acids. Please refer to NIOD's Non-Acid Acid Precursor for such a reference. 

Directions

Use ideally in the PM, no more frequently than twice per week. Clean face and wait for skin to dry. Do not use on wet skin. Apply evenly across face and neck using your fingertips. Leave on for no more than 10 minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water. Avoid the eye contour and contact with eyes both during application and rinse off. This low-viscosity solution is intended to be used as a masque. Do not leave on for longer than 10 minutes. If persistent irritation occurs, discontinue use and consult a physician. (Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards. Use only as directed. Contact of the product with the skin must be of limited frequency or duration.)

Ingredients

Glycolic Acid, Aqua (Water), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Salicylic Acid, Potassium Citrate, Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan gum, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol.

Jadi intinya ini adalah chemical exfoliator yang masuk kategori tinggi ya menurut aku, secara kandungannya aha 30% dan bha 2%. Fungsi utamanya untuk mengangkat sel kulit mati di wajah kita dan membersihkan pori. Karena dosisnya tinggi maka pengaplikasiannya tidak boleh lebih dari 10 menit. Kesan pada pemakaian pertama, kalau orang-orang bilang terasa perih lah terbakar lah tapi aku gak merasakan itu loh cuma clekit-clekit itu pun dikiiiitttt banget, jujur malah lebih clekit pas awal pake biologique p50, mungkin karena aku dah terbiasa dengan acid jadinya kulitku gak kaget. Setelah dibilas kulit berasa bersih, segar, dan kencang. Malam disaat aku pakai ini aku sengaja gak pake skincare apa-apa lagi untuk tahu reaksinya di kulit aku. Besok paginya memang aku lihat ada muncul whiteheads di hidung tapi yang bikin aku suka adalah wajahku terlihat bersih dan cerah tanpa ada pengelupasan, lalu di dekat alis aku kan ada jerawat radang yang guede banget uda diobati gak kempes-kempes, eh setelah pake ini agak kempesan dan udah gak sakit lagi kalau kesentuh. Yang doyan chemical peeling pasti suka produk satu ini, udah harganya affordable tapi kualitasnya oke punya, very recommended.

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